Lamps for the Devas: How Dev Deepawali of Varanasi grew from two cans of oil into a global phenomenon of light

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तमसो मा ज्योतिर्गमय “Lead me from darkness to light.” — Brihadaranyaka Upanishad, 1.3.28 On the evening of Tuesday, November 24, the sun will set over Varanasi. Within minutes, the river will begin to glow. Lamp after lamp will catch along the crescent of ghats, from Ravidas Ghat in the south to…